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Zuwarah Beach: one of the best in the whole of Libya.
. زوارة مدينة ليبية تقع على شاطئ البحر الابيض المتوسط ،
حوالي 110 كم
غرب
العاصمة
طرابلس

There are many fantastic beaches of pure
golden sand and clear turquoise water spread along Libya’s
northern coast, the most significant of which are those found
west and east of the city of Zuwarah (or Zuwara), and west
of Sabratha and Tellil; extending all the way to the Tunisian
border. These are great beaches of soft white sand,
palm trees and sandy hills. Hence the area was chosen for
Libya’s
Free Trade Zone, as an ideal transit platform for companies seeking to export
to Africa, Europe and Asia.


Zuwarah Beach


The market in the centre of Zuwara in 1940s.
The following photo shows the same market area in 2008. 
Zuwarah City Centre, Western Libya
The heart of Zuwarah centre. It was here that Col. Mua'mmar al-Qaddafi first
announced the Libyan Cultural Revolution ,
in 1973.
The stage from which he delivered the speech was located right
behind the dark car on the left-hand side of the edge of the photo.

The Old Market of Zuwarah:
the doors lead to a huge open space, where vegetable, fruits and fresh fish used to be sold.
The Name Zuwarah
( زوارة ) And Its Variants:
1- Ausorianes:
The earliest known name which one can associate with the present
Zuwarah is perhaps the prehistoric Tripolitanian Berber
tribe Ausorianes,
mentioned by Herodotus as a western Libyan tribe. The fact
that the name of the ancient Aussian tribe, mentioned by
Herodotus to had held ceremonies in honour of the
Libyan Goddess Neith
around
Lake Tritonis, is closely related to the present day sea festival
of
Awessu
in Zuwarah, one is even more inclined to link
the Ausorianes of Herodotus with the present day Zuwarah.
2-
Arzosei,
Arzuges or Arzugitani:
These tribes also inhabited the interior regions of Tripolitania
and all the way to Lake Tritonis in classical times, and therefore
including the entire Zuwarah region. According
to Brogan, a bishop of
Tusuros
(Tozer) passed through the land of the
Arzuges in his way to Carthage, presumably to take ship from Tacape,
and that a boundary stone found between
Be-Zereos and
Tibubuci bears
the tribal name
Arzosei.
Also related is the Punic (Berber-Phoenician) tribe name
Zeugitane or
Zeughitane, which was mentioned during the reign of
Massinissa; easily identifiable with
Zwagha
(/gh/ = /r/).
3- Casas:
Next, comes the Roman
Casas of
the second century BC. This name has been widely suggested
by several writers and historians to have been the ancient
name of Zuwarah. However, in a recent map the name
Casas was also associated
with Abu-Kammash, some 40 km to the west of Zuwarah. But since
Abu-Kammash itself was in a way a fishing village occupied
by local families from Zuwarah, and since Zuwarah itself
was a huge region stretching from west of Sabratha to the
Tunisian border, composed of various villages and castles,
then the name Casas could have been originally used to refer
to any of the settlements or homes in the Zuwarah region.
This is also indicated by the meaning of the name Casas itself,
which in today's Italian (based on Latin) means several things
including: 'homes', 'houses',
and 'places', and therefore
it could have been used by the Romans to describe
the settled settlements of the various villages of the Zuwarah
region, as opposed to the nomadic state generally applied
to the ancient Libyans, who subsisted on herbage and the
flesh of wild beasts as told by Sallust's hallucinations,
and as preserved in the name Numidia, Massinessa's kingdom,
which then included Zuwara and Tripolitania.
In summary, Casas would indicate a settled state as opposed to
a nomadic way of life, as is still the case with the Tuareg
of the Sahara, with Zuwarah (or Casas) being the later capital city of the entire region.
This distribution is further confirmed by at-Tijani
in his Travels of at-Tijani in Tunes and Tripolitania (1306-1308
AD),
in which he described Zuwarah as a group of villages, rather than
one, including: Wat'in (Zuwarah Minor),
Kut’een (Zuwarah Major), and Willoul. (See
below for details).
Based
on the
Tabula Peutingeriana
(a pictorial road-map of the Roman
empire) and archaeological evidence such as Roman road milestones,
D.E.L. Haynes, relates
that there were several Roman road systems in Tripolitania,
including the Coast Road, which in fact stretched from Alexandria
to Carthage, and, with a fair degree of certainty, gives
the following stations.
Arae Philaenorum, Tugulus (Gasr el-Haddia),
Zure (er-Rumia), Macomades-Euphranta (Sirte), Aspis-Ad Ficum
(Buerat el-hsun), Thubactis-Cephalae (Misurata Marina), Subgoli
(Zliten), Lepcis Magna (Lebda), Megradi-Getullu (Sidi Bennur),
Turris ad Algam (Tagiura: Tajura), Oea (Tripoli), Sabratha, Ad
Ammonem (Mellita),
Casas (Zuara),
Gypsaria
(Marset
Tibuda). (From Antiquities
of Tripolitania, page 136.) This shows that Casas
and Zuara are one and the same.
4- Zwwara:
Next, Casas or Cazaz moves on to Zwawa or Zuara: the
origin of the name
Zwara
or
Zuwarah
is not easy to ascertain, even though its derivation from Casas itself may not
seem that far fetched. But the current form of the name appeared for the first
time in recorded history as
the Punta dar Zoyara
in a Catalan sailing manual, dated 1375 AD.
Just
under two centuries later, in 1550 AD, it was mentioned
as Zoara by
the Berber geographer and traveller
Leo Africanus
in his Description
de l’Afrique. Before that, the 12th century North
African
Ibn Khaldun
seemed certain to connect
it with the other Berber variant tribal names, like Hawwara,
who according to Ibn A'bd al-H'akam (Futuh' Ifriqiya wa'l
Andalus) established themselves at Leptis Magna, and
who according to Ibn Khaldun lived in the province of Tripoli
(or Tripolitania) in 700 AD.
In this instance Hawwara, Hoggar, Zuwara
and Zuwawa are all forms of the same root. The change of /gg/ or
/bb/ to /ww/ is very common in Berber, as in
tabburt
=
tawwurt.
Presently, the name Zwara is often written in various forms, which
although are not totally dissimilar, they are nonetheless confusing
when running search queries in the Internet or in library catalogues.
There are several reasons for this but arguably the most certain would not exclude dialectical differences
or lack of published dictionaries. The form
Zwara
is generally written by the natives of Zuwarah; and
Zowara,
Zuwara, Zwara
and
Zouara
are generally used by the rest of the Libyans; while
Zuwarah
(or
Zowarah) is generally used internationally, by writers, scholars, Google, Encyclopedia
Britannica, etc., in their effort to directly translate how the word is written
in Arabic, although the /h/ (which is written as /t/ in Arabic) at the end of
the word is not pronounced in Libya.
5- Tamort:
Having said all that, the Berbers of Zuwarah call their city
Tamort,
and they never use any of the above forms when they talk to each
other in Berber. The above forms are only used when speaking
Arabic. The name
Tamort
or
Tamourt
means several things, all of which are well recognised in universal
Berber language, from Sebta to Siwa, including 'home', 'earth',
'land', 'village', 'town', 'country', and 'the Earth' (as a
planet). And so it follows that the Berbers of Zuwarah call themselves
Ait willoul, the singular of which is
Willoul, meaning 'free' and 'born'.
At-Tijani: Zuwara Minor
&
Zuwara Major:
According to at-Tijani (Travels of at-Tijani in Tunes and Tripolitania,
1306-1308 AD), Zwara al-Sughra (Zwara Minor) was also
known as Wat
’
in (or Zelten), The Land of al-Murabit
’
in (almuravids). He says it was a village with plenty of
high
palm trees and sweet water, but during his time it was taken
over
by destruction and
its few dwellers are Khawarej. He also says that the most
prominent from the land of al-Murabit
’
in
is al-Shaykh A
’
ebd al-Rrah
’
im az-Zwari, who was respected by all and chosen to be their
leader for his age and good deeds. From Zelten he continues his
travels to Zwara al-Kubra (Zwara Major), known as Kut
’
een, which has a bigger forest than the first one. Then to Willoul,
about 20 miles from Wat
’
in, which he says was named after the tribe of
Ait Willoul who inhabited the area.
Today, the various tribes of Zwara call themselves by the collective
name of Ait Willoul, translated by some as
“
the free people
”
, from the Berber tilelli (freedom) and loul (born).
And from Willoul, he continued to Tellil, just before Zwagha (Sabratha),
a fortress on top of a hill by the seashore surrounded by many
houses all the way down to the ground level, where they mingle
with gardens and farms, on which they depend for food.

Territories of Zuwarah:
Based on various historical documents and sources, it becomes
evident that the territories of Zuwarah (as a region composed
of various villages and towns) included most of Tripolitania.
The Arab writer al-Bakari (11th century)
informs us that the Berber tribes Zwagha, Zwara and Nafousa
were among the tribes living in the Tripolitania region.
While al-Yaqubi (9th century) had informed us that
the territory of the Nafousa ran from southern Tripolitania
to the neighbourhood of Kairouan (in Tunisia).
After the various arrivals during the course of the centuries,
the Nafousa tribes were forced back towards their stronghold
(the mountains), while the various Zwawa, Zwagha and Zwara tribes
were slowly pushed west towards the border as Tripoli continued
to grow across the centuries.
Currently,
the Zuwara territories ran from al-Manqoub (about 20 km east
of Zuwara) to the Tunisian border (about 60 km west of Zuwara),
where the fishing village of Abu-kemmash is still inhabited
today by various tribes from Zuwara city.
According to a
study published in 1946,
Zuwarah was
the largest region in the whole of Tripolitania: an estimated
one thousand and three hundred and thirteen
square
miles (1,313).
In a recent case study of the Libyan
Zuwara population, published in the Journal of Applied Science
[6 (3): 616-621, 2006],
the authors Tarik B. Benomar, Fuling Biant and Abdolaziz Muosa
Shalgam have used a population project model to estimate the
population growth for Zwara city until the year 2050, and came
to the conclusion that the average population growth rate of
Zuwara city is 7.2% per year, while that of the local migration
is 131.13% per year. They have also calculated that the total
area of Zwara city itself has increased from 3.55 km2 in 1980
to 42.7 km2 in 2000.

Ammi S3eed
The
holy tomb of Ammi S3id (Sidi Sa'eed or Sa'id), just before Farwa,
during the 1920s. The tomb was demolished during the last decades
of the 20th century, and then was rebuilt, as shown below.
Sidi Sa'id was also the name of one of the most important battles
fought by the locals against the Italian armies.

The Holy Tomb of Sidi Saeed
(S3eed), Zuwara, Libya.
According to M. S. Ayoub the area between Zwara and Zerzis
(in Tunisia) was probably inhabited by the Garamantes of
Germa before they fled the wars and immigrated south, sometime
during the 7th century, where they remained until they disappeared
into Ghana in the eleventh century. According to a Greek
legend, Garama, the ancestor of the Garamantes, was born
on the shores of Lake Tritonis. This, however, agrees with
lbn Khaldun’s statement
that Germanah (Germa) was first settled by the Berber
Lauta tribe (the
Leuathae
of the Byzantine period), along
the coast of Tripolitania.

Zuwarah village as it looked in 1920s: mud houses and palm trees.
Ighermawen (The Castles):
Ighermawen, meaning 'the castles', is a place of ancient ruins,
about four kilometres west of Zuwarah city, including a
Roman villa, dilapidated buildings, shreds of pottery and
mosaics, possibly dating to the second century BC. The site
has always been there and is part of the local culture. It
has not however been documented or studied. Future research
may one day shed more light on the distant history of Zuwarah.
Tawsent

Tawsent, Zuwarah.

This area of Zuwara beach is locally called
Tawsent. It is located
between Zuwara city and Zuwara Marina (the seaport of Zuwara).
The dark material on the beach is seaweed and sea grasses brought
ashore by the waves. A few years ago these seaweed heaps reached
up to three meters high, and formed a huge platform, about
few hundred meters long, with several holes in between going
all the way down to the water level. Walking across the top of
the platform one often sees water coming up these holes as waves
hit the bottom of the holes.
But these are history now,
as they were cleared away a few years ago in a massive clean-up
operation of the beach. The above photo shows the process to
have started again and it will take decades, if not centuries,
for the seaweed to reach the levels it had reached before. Natural
landmarks such as these ought to be left alone and even protected
for the wildlife they harbour and for their aesthetic beauty.
Tawsent has started the recovery process. Those gaps in between
the patches grow to become the holes referred to above. The area
is a good and quite place for fishing.

Produce of Zuwarah:
Tisent ('salt'):
The ancient produce of the towns and villages of Zuwarah (from
Tellil and
Willoul to
Abukammash and Farwah)
included salt (tisent),
lime (jeer), gypsum
(ulous),
cereals (timz'een &
irden),
dates (izegnan),
and esparto grass, generally used to make ropes, mats
and sandals. Surrounded
by salt marches, the main export of the region was salt,
with the main importers being Venice, in Italy.
The Berber name for salt, namely
tisent,
appears to be related to the above
Tawsent,
which leads one to ask: Was Tawsent
the seaport through which salt was exported to Europe?
Maybe, as Tawsent is located very close to the seaport
of Zuwarah (Zuwarah Marina) - less than one mile further east.
Or was the area behind Tawsent an ancient source of good salt?
Or was it just a plain coincidence?
Awessu
The Ancient Sea Worship

Full Moon Over Zuwarah Beach, Western Libya.
The ancient and traditional ceremony of
Awessu
designates the period of the
heat wave between the 12th of July and the 23rd of August according
to the Julian calendar; or the 26th of July to the 5th of September
according to the Gregorian calendar. Hence it is not surprising
that the name
"Awessu"
itself has been linked by several sources with the month
August.
The change of August to Awessu
is also found in other languages from all over the world: for
instance: Awousse in the Wallon;
Awst in Welsh; and
Awissu in Maltese, all of which
mean the month of "August". According to current etymological dictionaries,
the word August entered the English language in 1097 AD, from
Latin Augustus (sixth month of the Roman year), named after the
emperor Augustus Cæsar (meaning 'venerable Cæsar'); in turn
from the Latin word 'augustus' (venerable).
But August is the eight month of the year.
In the original ceremony of Awessu the native
Berbers of Zuwarah take to the sea before sunrise, to observe
the rise of moisture from the sea, and to swim in
its magical, silent, mirror-like water, for cleansing one's
sins and for benefiting from the inherent healing properties
of the saline water. As the sun begins to rise, the inhabitants
of Zuwara take sea water with their two palms joined together
and throw it up in jubilation into the sky, several times.
Then dive seven times under water, as if to avert or to acknowledge
the traditional belief that says:
"the sea needs seven lives a year", which it claims by drowning its
victims. Those who cannot go into the sea, say the elderly and the very
young, are sprayed with sea water instead.
After they complete their purification
rituals, they also take their domestic animals (goats
and sheep) into the water, to gain the necessary blessing
for prosperity and for protection.
Wool garments and blankets are also washed by the beach for purification
purposes.
The remaining of the days will be spent feasting on traditional
foods, especially utshu d udi -
a kind of
bazin
served with olive
oil.
This festival is very ancient and pre-islamic. According to the
Berber Christian theologian St Augustin the ancient Libyans celebrated
Awessu by bathing naked in the sea. It is common in many ancient
cultures to bath naked in the water in the belief that coming
in direct contact with water transmits the hidden and healing
properties of the water to the human body, in the same way nowadays
people take their cloths off to swim in the sea - to feel
the cold water in the heat. This fact has falsely and slowly led to the association
of the festival with promiscuity and eventually its popularity faded away
with time, where it is now almost forgotten. Nowadays, the festival of Awessu,
if it takes place, is only an occasion of joy and fun, including
sailing and swimming races, folk dancing
&
singing, and feasting on traditional food.
Further information:
U. Paradisi's work (La terminologia araba el berbera del mare a Zuara), published in L'Atlante Linguistico Mediterraneo, Fondazione Cini di Venezia.

Matshouk Coffee Shop, Zuwarah.

Matshouk Beach, Zuwarah. |